I followed the sign into a tiny alleyway and found the tavern, hidden behind a wooden door. Inside, it was cozy and dim, with stone walls and a fireplace crackling in the corner. The bartender, a friendly man with a bushy beard, told me that the tavern had been around since the 17th century and that Lord Byron, the famous English poet, used to drink there. Legend has it that Byron once got so drunk, he tried to ride a stone lion outside the tavern (spoiler: he fell off). I ordered a pint of meteorite beer and a plate of cheese fondue—because when in Switzerland, you have to eat cheese fondue.​

After my meal, I wandered further into the Old Town and stumbled upon the Museum of Old Geneva, which has a collection of 16th-century torture devices. I stood there, staring at a iron maiden and a rack, while holding a half-eaten chocolate bar. It was a weird mix of horror and indulgence—classic Geneva.​

3. The Palace of Nations: Broken Chairs and Diplomatic Gossip​

The Palace of Nations, home to the United Nations Office at Geneva, is a symbol of global diplomacy. With its grand halls, marble staircases, and lush gardens, it feels like a place where important decisions are made (and where diplomats secretly eat candy).​

One of the first things I noticed was a giant sculpture of a broken wooden chair, located in front of the building. The chair is missing one leg, and it’s meant to symbolize the fight against landmines. I thought it was a powerful statement—until I heard a tour guide joke that it’s also a metaphor for Swiss precision: “Even our anti-war art has to be perfectly balanced.”​

Inside, I visited the Assembly Hall, where world leaders meet to discuss issues like climate change and human rights. The hall is decorated with a massive mural by a Spanish artist, depicting a “broken earth” divided into pieces. I later learned that some diplomats find the mural depressing and try to avoid looking at it during meetings. “It’s hard to talk about world peace when you’re staring at a painting of the planet falling apart,” one guide told me.​

But the best part of the Palace of Nations was the people-watching. I saw a group of diplomats in fancy suits arguing in French, a intern taking selfies in front of a UN flag, and a small delegation from a tiny country using rainbow-colored candies to take notes during a meeting. “It’s easier to remember important points when they’re written in candy,” one of them told me with a smile. I couldn’t help but laugh—even in the most serious places, people find ways to be playful.​